His first tip that has proven well, don't dress like a California tourist. Lew knows me well and my fashion sense stays all about 2 pair of shorts and a bunch of Tommy Bahama T's. I took his advice to heart and had to repack before leaving to include dress pants, dress Tommy Bahama shirts, and a variety of none chest embroidered branding golf shirts. That was good advice and has served me well as we interact with the Italians, and not come off as some ugly American.
The second piece of advice he gave me was, of all the sights to visit while in Florence, be sure to go to Coquinaros restaurant and have their Cheese and Apple Ravioli. Tonight we did exactly that.
We had walked all day from 9 - 5 and saw a great many sights as I recounted in a different blog. earlier in the day I had spoken to our concierge at our hotel and asked him to make reservations for 8 pm. Really cool how the Concierge also maintains your room key (old fashioned key attached to a giant brass plate that has your room number on it). You leave it when your leave the hotel and pick it upon your return. They also stash messages in your box with the key to delivery when you collect it. I am afraid they didn't get the humor when I approached, lowered my shades and said in my best Sean Connery impression,"any messages for me, the name is Bond, James Bond?"
Any way we went back to our room and had a lie down to give our feet a rest from the torture we put them through all day. A quick shower and now out came the dressy clothes and we proceeded downstairs for the walk to the Duomo. And then it happened. Flash....Boom... And it started to pour. We looked out and to our dismay the skies were charcoal and grey and water was bouncing of the cobblestones. I turned to Joan and said we can't walk. I went back to ask the concierge to get us a taxi and he said, "well Mr Bond, we do have car that we can take you in." Ah.... He does have a sense of humor....
We got into a very nice Peugeot van along with another nicely dressed couple. They needed to go to the other side of the river to Saint Marks, and we were on our way to Coquinaros. I was so glad we were in the car as the rain didn't seem to be letting up. I figured we would have a problem getting back, but what the hell, we were dry now and on our way to dinner. Worry later.
This was a magnificent restaurant. As usual, Lew was spot on. It was elegant, but casual. It was fancy but simple. Above all, it was friendly and joyous. There was a line at the door waiting to get in which was a bit uncomfortable due to the rain was forcing everyone inside. Fortunately, Lew had suggested to make reservations. I identified ourselves to this bubbly young man who stopped by 5 tables on his way to greet us and he looked genuinely pleased to see me. "Ah Meester Louis, so glad you are here. We have your table. Wait one minute" and he practically danced back through the tables toward the back. In a quick minute he reappeared about halfway back and flagged us to follow him. Joan and I could feel all the cold saber stares we got past the waiting crowd.
There were three people who were handling the entire restaurant. They were waiters, bussers, table cleaners, hosts, bartenders, and cashiers. They flat out hustled. And yet, the made you feel like you were part of the family. The joked and cajoled, explained and suggested. They conversed about where we were from and they sure knew their wine. The restaurant originally started as a wine bar and slowly grew over time.
We had a very nice bottle of Barolo and our waiter loved the selection. He talked about the vineyard in piedmont that this particular grower used and how he preferred this over many other Italian wines as it is almost a Bordeaux. Joan ordered a stuffed eggplant with sun dried tomatoes grilled to start and I had the Beef Carpaccio. They were both outstanding. Joan talked to the waitress to find out how the grilled and rolled the eggplant as she would love to make this at home for Beth. My carpaccio was heavenly. For our main courses Joan had the Cheese and Pear Ravioli and 8 had the Cheese and Black Pepper Tortellini. Joan's plate is what they are renowned for, and their is good reason. It delights the senses. It is sweet and tart and cheesy. It has a very light cream sauce that goes along with it. After sampling a bite, then another, and yet one more, Joan pointed out I had my own dinner to complete. My tortellini was excellent and at any other time I would be sharing its finer points including the subtle taste of pepper and the fine Julianne slice of red and yellow peppers in a very light cream sauce. But when compared to the Cheese and Pear Ravioli? There is but one champion at this table.
We kidded and had a great time with all three of the combo waiters/hosts/bussers. When I paid the bill I again expressed how much we had both enjoyed our meals and their sheer joy in taking care of us. They also expressed how great it was that had enjoyed ourselves so, and a gave us complementary Lemon-cello shots as we made our way to the front. At the front door I checked and was delighted it had stopped raining. Our waiter flagged us as we stepped to the door way and skipped around the tables to the front where he gave Joan a big hug and me a handshake and said "Ciao".
You know how in the movies for nighttime scenes that always spray them down with water to make the lights glisten off the road? That is how Florence looked tonight as we strolled back to the hotel. It was perfect cap to a perfect day in a beautiful city.
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